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If we had no
winter, the spring would not be so pleasant.
-Anne Dudley Bradstreet
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Related
Links:
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Idea Center | Soldering |
Clean Solder Iron Tip
The tip of your soldering iron should always be silver. If it is
ever any color other than silver, stop soldering immediately and
clean it as solder will not stick to an oxidized tip. Normally this is done on a damp synthetic sponge while the
iron is hot. If the tip of your iron becomes black and you just cannot
get it tinned (silver colored) again, you can use a
Sal Ammoniac Block
to re-tin the tip.
Hints to Keep the Iron Tip
Silver
- Do not leave the iron plugged in
when not in use.
- Do not use the iron at a higher
temperature than is necessary to melt solder.
- Clean the tip of the iron on a damp
synthetic sponge as soon as it starts to change from silver.
- Even when heating up or cooling down
your iron, check that the tip doesn't discolor. If it does, wipe it
on a damp synthetic sponge.
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Sal Ammoniac Block
Sal Ammoniac is a toxic substance used to clean corrosion from
the oxidized tip of a soldering iron.
- First dig a small hole in the block
of Sal Ammoniac and
stir it up into a powder.
- Mix the powder with some solder in
the hole in the block of sal ammoniac. You can do this by
transferring a small amount of solder on the tip of the hot iron or
by cutting a small chunk of solder off the roll and then putting it
into the hole in the block. You'll need 1/4" or so.
- Stir the contents of the hole with
the tip of the hot soldering iron.
Remember, this is toxic. Do not breathe the fumes!
- Wipe the iron on a damp synthetic
sponge.
- Use the tip of the iron to push the
solder/sal ammoniac into the sides of the hole (I think of it as the
same motion as creaming sugar and butter together).
- Repeat until the tip is completely
re-tinned and silver. Now, never ever let the tip be
any color other than silver again!
- As with all soldering products, it
is highly recommended that you use this product in a well ventilated
area. We sell a charcoal activated smoke absorber for your safety.

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Christine Cox 11/05
Fused Glass Dish
It isn't beautiful but it was my first-ever fused glass project. The
centerpiece is a piece of copper, embossed with my library embosser and
then fused between a piece of black glass and a piece of clear. I
slumped it and now it's a paperclip holder. |
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Here I'm making a stained glass
panel in the pattern of a magnolia.
Horse Shoe Nails are used to hold the lead came and zinc in place.
Click images to enlarge.
My friend Helen Wilkinson finished the
magnolia panel for me. It turned out beautifully and now hangs in my studio.
~6/05 12" X 12"
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What's New
Product News
* Cream and Acanthus Book
Cloth
* Tim McCreight's "Boxes and
Lockets"
* Black Back Copper Foil
Tape
* New and Improved Volcano
Arts Folder
* Splash Guard for Glass Grinder
* Copper Foil Tape in 5/32"
* Silver Back Copper Foil Tape
* Weller Smoke Absorber
* Wizling CG Glass Grinder
* Classic 100 Gel Flux
* Glass Bevels in New Sizes
* Book: Kaleidoscope
* Frosted Memory Glass
* Frames for Memory Glass
* 1/16" Brass Eyelets
* 1/16" Eyelet Tool
Sales and Specials
* Page Updated
New in The Muse
*
A
Curious Artist's Timeline
* Enamels:
Love at First Sight
By Christine Cox
* Brooch or
Necklace Watch
By Christine Cox
*
An Interview
with: Christine Cox
By Kathy Wasilewski of ISABA
* Wooden Book with
PMC and Glass Inlay
By Christine Cox 6/07
* 1Q 2007 Blank Book Swap
*
Textures and Patinas Book
By Lorna Lawson
*
Video: How to Cut Glass
*
How to Make a Mountain Book by Sally Monahan
*
15th Century Binding
Idea Center
*
Leather and Sterling Silver Book
*
Miniature Enamel Book
* Freeform Peyote Watches
* Class
Swap Photos
* Wood Book with Caterpillar
* How to Clean and Maintain
Soldering Iron Tips
* Correct Blade
Installation in a Saw Frame
Classes
*
Torch Technic
* Photos from Round Boxes
Class
* New Classes up for 2008!
* Photos from
Treasure Bindings Class
* Photos from Bracelet
Technic Class
* Photos from Book Technic 1 Class
* Photos from Art Parts Intensive
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